Think of squishy, overripe strawberries and parma violets in this big, funky and fruity cup. As it cools there's a yoghurt edge to it alongside a creamy body, before it finishes on lime cordial.
Tucked into the rolling hills of Palencia, just a short drive east of Guatemala City, lies San Patricio El Limón - a coffee farm that's as much about family and community as it is about exceptional coffee. First established in 1997, the estate has passed through three generations of the Aguilar family and is now owned and operated by Guadalupe "Beto" Reyes and his family. It's a shining example of what happens when passion, innovation, and collaboration come together.
Finca El Limón is the jewel in the crown of the San Patricio Estate, which also includes El Morito and Bella Vista. The family purchased El Limón over two decades ago and have since renovated older areas by terracing the land to prevent erosion, planting new coffee varieties, and introducing sustainable farming practices. Coffee is grown in harmony with the surrounding native pine forest, which provides natural shade cover and supports a diverse ecosystem of local flora and fauna. To avoid using damaging herbicides, weeding is done manually and pest control is limited to only twice a year. The team have also built eight water reserves on the farm and established a water treatment plant for contaminated wastewater from coffee processing.
While the farm mainly produces Caturra and Bourbon, Beto's commitment to experimentation has led to a range of new varieties and processing methods - including this Pacamara, the result of experimental crop cultivation. Their 2021 naturally processed Pacamara earned 14th place in the Guatemala Cup of Excellence with a score of 88.01, a notable achievement that reflects both the quality of their coffees and the growing recognition of alternative processing methods in the region. Natural processing remains relatively uncommon in Guatemala, where washed methods dominate, but producers like Beto are helping to shift that narrative.
For this lot, cherries are selectively hand-harvested over many weeks and sorted to remove any underripe or damaged seeds before being laid out to dry. The natural process - drying the coffee inside the whole cherry - imparts the distinctive fruity, winey character you'll find in the cup: dried apricot and poached pear, with jammy fruit notes and a subtle lime acidity.
The family have operated their own wet mill since the very beginning, giving them control over quality and traceability. Run by Beto's brother Felix, the mill can process many lots simultaneously, keeping separate days' pickings, processes, and varietals in their own parcels. Beto has invested in state-of-the-art equipment including imported floating tanks and pulping machines, and continues to reinvest in infrastructure: a QC lab, a new warehouse, and worker accommodations.
San Patricio is very much a family affair. Beto's son Saul studied agronomy for seven years and now applies his knowledge to benefit practices on the farm. Beto's wife Maralyn, their children Elena and Betio, Betio's wife Mafer, and Beto's brother Felix all play a part in the day-to-day running of the estate. Social sustainability is important to the Reyes family - they work hard to build loyalty and team spirit, treating their people as equals and collaborators.
Palencia isn't one of Guatemala's eight officially recognised coffee-growing regions - names like Antigua, Huehuetenango, and Cobán tend to dominate the conversation - but it's quietly carving out its own identity, thanks in large part to the Reyes family. With volcanic soil, temperate climate, and high altitudes, Palencia has all the natural ingredients for exceptional coffee. What it lacks in historical recognition, it makes up for in innovation and community spirit. Beto is also a former Mayor of Palencia, having worked tirelessly to support and elevate the community alongside running his farm. Honestly, no idea how he finds enough hours in the day - what a guy.
- Country: Guatemala
- Region: Palencia
- Farm: San Patricio El Limon
- Farmer: Guadalupe Alberto 'Beto' Reyes Aguilar
- Altitude: 1,350-1,850 m.a.s.l.
- Farm size: 9 hectares
- Varietal: Pacamara
- Processing method: Natural